EMBROIDERED CHOLIES OF PAHARI REGION: A TECHNICAL STUDY

Pahari embroidery was traditionally practiced across undivided Punjab and Himachal Pradesh, with designs, materials, and techniques adapted to suit various utilities. The most renowned product is the Chamba Rumal, locally called dhaknu or chabbu, while household textiles also featured intricate single-sided embroidery.
Himachal Pradesh’s cholies stand out for their unique construction and design. A study of cholies from Bhuri Singh Museum (Chamba), Government Museum and Art Gallery (Chandigarh), National Museum (New Delhi), and private collections highlights their distinct materials, stitches, and motifs.
Miniature paintings further reflect the socio-cultural relevance of these embroidered garments. Two embroidery styles emerge—freehand curved and geometric designs—alongside two construction variations in cholies. These designs were documented through redrawn motifs by miniature artist Shri Prixit Sharma, Chamba.
Stitches are classified into filling, outline, and finishing techniques, each contributing to the uniqueness of choli blouses and distinguishing them from other Pahari embroidery traditions.